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June 11, '03 - Huntington, Indiana to Defiance, Ohio
Goodbye Hoosiers and Hello Buckeyes. Today was a longer day than I had planned, but if I could read directions...maybe, just maybe, it would not have been so lengthy. I missed a turn in Monroeville, Indiana and it wound up lengthening my day by eight miles. I would love to regale you with all the wonderful sights, smells and foods I stumbled into by missing the turn, but unfortunately all it meant was I got to ride past two confined hog operations...twice! If you have ever been near a confined hog operation, you know how quickly they can clear your sinuses, water your eyes, and activate your gag reflex. Today's route took me south of Ft. Wayne, Indiana, which served as a reminder as to how really old I am. Riding near Ft. Wayne jogged the memory to the time my Dad took me to see the Ft. Wayne Pistons play the Quad-City Blackhawks at Wharton Field House in Moline when I was a youngster. Now Ft. Wayne's Pistons have been the Detroit Pistons for many years and the Quad-City Blackhawks under weasel owner Ben Kerner became the Milwaukee Hawks, then the St. Louis Hawks with Cliff Hagan and Bob Petit, and are now the hapless Atlanta Hawks. The Quad-City Blackhawks, featuring the Twin Towers of Don Otten and Charley Share, alums of Bowling Green, a city and campus I'll visit tomorrow. And the coach of the Quad-City Blackhawks that year? (You can look it up) Arnold "Red" Auerbach. As fanatical a hoops fan as I was then, today I could care less about the Nets/Spurs series, but then the NBA is not marketed to guys my age, so David Stern et all could really give a rats hind end whether I watch or not. But I even pine for the ABA (it never should have merged). Where have you gone Zelmo Beatty, Byron Beck, Billy (The Whopper) Paultz, and Jumbo Jim Eakins. Oh bring back the red, white and blue ball along with the Kentucky Colonels, the Virginia Squires and the Baltimore Claw. Miles ridden today 78...total trip miles 2934.
June 12,'03 - Defiance to Bowling Green
It was a short riding day and that was a good thing. Rain was with me from beginning to end. Oppressive, unending, depressing, constant rain. Can you tell I'm getting a just a little bit sick of the constant precipitation? It is time to rename our journey from Geezerpalooza to the Rainmaker Tour. Defiance, Ohio had .001 inch of rain so far in June. Today they were expecting an inch and a half. That is more than they received in all of May. The ride itself would have been absolutely beautiful, had I been able to see through the rain. I followed the Maumee River almost forty miles from Defiance through Napolean and on to Grand Rapids. The route is classified as an Ohio Scenic Byway and it truly is. Napolean, Ohio is a picturesque small city built around the Maumee, but as I rode into town it smelled like tomato soup. Why, I asked myself, would rain smell like tomato soup? The further into Napolean I went, the stronger the smell of tomato soup. Then riding out of town, I passed a huge factory, approximately a half a mile long, and a sign telling me this was the Napolean, Ohio - Campbell's Soup Plant. Today must have been tomato soup day. Tomorrow Napolean might smell like Chicken Noodle. On up the river, Jan caught up with me in Grand Rapids, Ohio, another charming small hamlet along the Maumee. We had lunch at The Family Restaurant. Jan had a taco salad that was the size of a small mountain and delicious, while I had a Chicken Fried Steak that was to die for...there was enough food on my plate to feed a section gang. Total cost for the lunch: $10.15. Fourteen miles later I rolled into Bowling Green. As the rain continued to fall, I wandered all over the village looking for our hotel. I called Jan and she, too, was lost in Bowling Green. But she found me and I loaded the bike on the trailer and we looked together. She was frustrated we couldn't find it. I could have cared less. I was inside the car and out of the rain. Bowling Green, the sign says, is not only the home of Olympic skater Scott Hamilton, but has won the state high school hockey tournament seven out of the last ten years. Napolean, Ohio, twenty some miles away, appears to have a monopoly on the state high school water polo championship. Maybe my home town of Cambridge could have beaten somebody at something if we had just picked different sports. Miles ridden today 49...total miles 2983.
June 13, '03 - Bowling Green to Avery
Hey, even though it was Friday the 13th it didn't rain today...and I only got lost twice....before ten a.m., but I was lost at least seven times on the day. Adventure Cycling is doing an excellent job vectoring me around roads filled with traffic, but as I ride into more and more populous areas, the task becomes more daunting. Getting through Fremont, Ohio was no more difficult than putting together an Easy-Bake oven at midnight on Christmas Eve "put tab B3 into Slot G14". In fact, an Easy-Bake oven might have been easier, because Jan was always there to bail me out and that wasn't the case going through Fremont.
My route today took me through Pemberville and Gibsonburg, with the latter featuring a really cool bakery. It also was host to the Animal Shelter Tavern...I still haven't figured that one out. Fremont, Ohio is another of the many charming, small Ohio cities that never ceases to amaze us. Large mansions sit along tree-lined streets and the residents seem to make a real effort to keep their city as neat as a pin. Fremont is the home of former president Rutherford B. Hayes, whom is always listed in the top half of the men who have lead our country only when you list them in alphabetical order. Otherwise, he is best known as being a real dud in the White House. But, like Dan Quayle, he had to be from somewhere, so why not Fremont. From Fremont to Clyde, Ohio, I took the North Coast Inland Bike Trail. This seven mile stretch was exquisite. It runs along a railroad track and the last two miles border the huge Whirlpool Plant in Clyde. Clyde, Ohio, as I am sure everyone knows, was named for the camel owned by Ahab the A-rab "Sheik of the burning sands" of Ray Stevens fame. I was only lost three times in Clyde. I just love directions that state, "Go through the parking lot to Main Street. Turn right on Main and go .4 of a mile and turn left on un-signed Elm Street." This is really hard to do when your computer won't work. I try to mention the computer at least once in every state to try and bring some shame on the Shimano folks who are responsible for the malfunctioning piece of crap that is attached to my handle bars. And the street being un-signed is not exactly a helper to someone as directionally challenged as I. Remember, yours truly can and has gotten lost in a closet. Finally I got a 15 mile stretch with a breeze to my back and rolled into Avery, Ohio, having ridden that road in less than 45 minutes. Tomorrow should be exciting as I head east from Huron, Ohio on US 6 toward Cleveland. We will be staying with the Backus family in Lakewood, Ohio. They are long-time friends of my sister Mari. It is so nice of them to take in the Geezers from the Geezerpalooza traveling circus. Sunday will be a day off and we hope to have the opportunity to sail on Lake Erie. Won't that be cool. The day off is to emotionally prepare myself for Monday's sojourn through the heart of downtown Cleveland. I can hardly wait. On second thought, I have decided that I can wait, in fact I wouldn't mind entirely missing the trip through downtown Cleveland, but I guess that isn't possible if I am going to ride across the US. I did pass the 3,000 mile mark on my ride today and with a little luck and some bad figuring maybe I will get to Westport, Connecticut without going over 4,000 miles. Which reminds me....we are approaching two months on the trip and I have yet to be told how I get from the Hudson River to Campo Beach in Westport. Do you folks think you can keep me out of the Nutmeg State that easily? Miles ridden today 72...total miles 3055.
June 14, '03 - Avery to Lakewood
This was a short, easy day. I left Avery and made the five mile ride to Huron, Ohio and Lake Erie where I turned on to US 6. This major highway follows the shoreline of Lake Erie all the way to Cleveland. It was quite foggy and hard to see much on the Lake, but the cities along the way were quite charming. Vermillion, Ohio in particular appeared to be a town I would love to re-visit. Lorain, Ohio was quite large and for an industrial city was quite attractive. They have done a major re-development on their harbor. Since the route followed the shoreline, the homes along the way were absolutely magnificent. Through Avon Lake, Bay Village and Rocky River, they just became more impressive the closer I got to Cleveland. Now I am in Lakewood at the home of Bill and Sue Backus, longtime friends of my sister Mari. There home, built in 1899, is two blocks off my map route and offers an unparalleled view of Lake Erie. Last night they took Jan and I on a boat ride in their Whaler to downtown Cleveland, where we had a water's eye view of the harbor, Browns Stadium and the Rock'n'Roll Hall of Fame. And tomorrow we get to go for a sail. Life is indeed good in the Cleveland area for the Maynards. Tomorrow is Father's Day and as a present to me I am giving myself the day off. As an additional present the weather is supposed to be perfect. Miles ridden today 52...total trip miles 3107.
June 15, '03 - Day off in Lakewood, Ohio
Geezerpaolooza took the day off and what a day off it was. 75 degrees plus blue skies and sunshine. We slept in and then Chris Backus and his mom, Sue, took Jan and I for a sail on their boat. What a kick. A perfect day with folks who knew what they were doing, so the Maynards could just kick back and enjoy. After the sail we returned to the Backus Manor and a Father's Day Family Feast where Sue and Bill were gracious enough to have us join Bill's brother and his wife, Bill's parents, Sue's Mom, plus Chris and Kathleen for an afternoon of great food and conversation. What a wonderful respite from the ride. Could two people be more gracious than Sue and Bill Backus? I don't think so. We just had a fabulous time. Here's hoping that on some occasion we can return the favor in Colorado. No miles ridden today...total miles 3107.
June 16, 03 - Lakewood to Madison
It was Cleveland day. In an attempt to avoid as much traffic as possible, I did not leave Lakewood, Ohio until after nine. Five miles into the trip I missed a turn, but there were my guardian angels, Chris and Bill Backus, on their way to work to pull along side and get me squared away. I made it over the Detroit Avenue bridge in downtown Cleveland and found my way to West 3rd which my Adventure Cycling map assured me was the way to go. But again, family Backus came to my rescue. Last night Bill had said he thought there was construction on West 3rd. Sue said if that was blocked, just go over to East 9th. There was construction and I would have been totally screwed were it not for their foresight. So over to East 9th and merrily on my way I went, past the Rock n Roll Hall of Fame, past Browns stadium and past Burke airport. Then on the outskirts of Cleveland, a sign said "Do Not Enter" in the middle of the bike path. I was totally screwed. To the left was Lake Erie, to the right was a freeway, and turning around did not constitute progress. So I went around the barrier. I still do not have the slightest idea why it was there. The path was open the rest of the way. On through Bratenahl and its huge, beautiful homes. On through Euclid, Willowick and Lakeline. All this time, traffic had been manageable but when I got to Eastlake, for some reason traffic picked up. And the further I went the worse it got. Painesville was bumper to bumper and the last 10 miles to Madison on State Highway 84 was like an LA freeway at rush hour. I guess everyone is heading for Erie, but if that is true why don't they use I-90? Tomorrow it is on through Geneva on the Lake Ashtabula, Conneaut and on to Erie, Pa. Let us hope the traffic volume backs off a bit. Miles ridden today 52...total miles 3159.
June 17, '03 - Madison, Ohio to Erie, Pennsylvania
Today starts week number nine on the Geezerpalooza tour and it seems like we were in Oregon just last week. Today was an easy day. No strong head winds, no rain and the traffic was light. I left Madison and soon was in Geneva-on-the-Lake, Ohio. This town is a tourist trap extraordinaire, making Central City, Branson or Pigeon Forge appear restrained. When one thinks of a devastated rust belt town Ashtabula, Ohio should come to mind. Huge buildings that once housed factories stand idle and empty structures that used to be home to retail businesses bear mute testimony to the realities of manufacturing along the Great Lakes. Yet 15 miles up the road from Ashtabula sits Conneaut, Ohio that appears to be prospering. Incidentally when life finds you in Conneaut may I recommend the Lighthouse Cafe right at the end of State Road 531. There you will find great people serving a great breakfast. At the north edge of Conneaut I crossed into Pennsylvania, a state that is really bicycle friendly. I was greeted by wide shoulders and was riding a Pennsylvania designated bike route. What a help to cyclists when a state actually cares. Are you listening Iowa? Nebraska, Illinois to a limited extent, Indiana and Ohio do go out of their way to provide a safe experience for cyclists. Now Pennsylvania continues that policy and I'm hopeful that New York will also be a pleasant experience. Iowa stands alone as a state that out and out sucks when it comes to helping cyclists. I guess they leave all that to the Register and Tribune and RAGBRAI assuming if you don't want to ride Iowa that one week of the year why just go to hell. I rode through Lake City and Fairview and on into Erie. We are dragging our heels to allow riding time for family that is joining us mid way through New York so we will take tomorrow off in Erie and explore the Presque Isle State Park that was recommended to us by Erie native George Orbanek. As I sit and type this it is raining, let us hope that ceases before we head for Presque Isle. Miles ridden today 64...total trip miles 3223.
June 18, '03 - Day off in Erie, PA
Off to New York...
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| "The Buckeye Cycle Club Welcomes Geezerpalooza" |
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| "You know what a Buckeye is? It's a useless nut. Are your nuts useless?" |
| I'm so happy to be in Ohio I almost opened my eyes |
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| "Actually I was worn out looking for the "Welcome to Indiana" sign." |
| Sign says 3dogs/$1,below it says rollergrill fresh |
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| "Nothing says fresh to me like a hot dog that's been on a roller grill for 7 and a half weeks." |
| Napolean, Ohio bike path along the Maumee River. |
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| "Some kind of nice farms in Ohio." |
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| "3 miles before Grand Rapids, Ohio on state highway 110." |
| Defiance, Ohio Maumee riverfront. |
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| "Can you imagine, it was raining when I took this picture." |
| "A tavern with me in mind." |
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| Found in Gibsonburg, Ohio. |
| Bike path from Fremont to Clyde, Ohio. |
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| "This is a great 7 mile or 14 mile round trip ride." |
| "Nothing gets on plane like a deere." |
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| "For when your plowing corn next to Lake Erie and the perch start to bite." |
| "I kept my eyes open for Pennsylvania... |
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| and I'll do my best to obey the speed limit, it's just that this bike is so fast." |
| Backus clan |
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| (left to right) Bill, Kathleen, Sue, Itinerant peddler, Chris. |
| Rock n Roll hall of fame from a bike. |
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| "I'm boycotting till Percey Sledge is inducted-Don't you think "When a Man Loves a Woman" is great." |
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