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Day 9 - Pine Creek, OR. to Council, ID.
Day 10 - Council to Whitebird A great day of riding. Five miles out of Council we had a 6 mile 2,000 foot climb and then it was downhill the rest of the day. Breakfast was a stop at New Meadows, Idaho and then we rode over thirty miles along the Little Salmon River to Riggins, Idaho the home of 2 Tooth Ruth's Bar. It was Latte' Time in Riggins and then we joined the Salmon River and headed toward White Bird. Just out of Riggins we crossed the Salmon and went back into the Pacific Time Zone at the end of the bridge, so of course the name of the bridge is The Time Change Bridge. The scenery and the downhill along the Salmon were breathtaking. After a long day, we arrived in White Bird, Idaho, population 150. There was a fiddlers' convention in White Bird, but the motel owner rented us his spare bedroom. Gere got to sleep in the sauna (I'm not making this up) on an air mattress. We ate at Mack's, which I recommend, but the bar next door must be unique. One half of the facility is a bar and the other half is a gun shop. Only in Idaho. Miles ridden today 93. Total Miles 700
Day 11 - May 2, '03 - Whitebird to Lowell We seem to always start the day with a climb. This was no exception as the first thing we faced was White Bird Hill. Some "hill". It climbs from 1,700 feet to 4,200 feet in seven miles. Not as tough as the Brownlee Summit, but it came close. Once on top, it was downhill to Grangeville, Idaho and latte time, followed by one of the great bike rides of my life. A steep downhill outside Grangeville took us to the Clearwater River and we rode along that magnificent stream, in the rain, all the way to Kooskia (the locals pronounce it Koo-ski). After a clam chowder break in Kooskia, population 500, we turned onto US 12 and headed into the Selway-Bitteroot Wilderness Area. Not that you have to do it on a bike, although that is the best way to go, but you owe it to yourself to visit this beautiful part of the world. We rode right next to the river wih very little shoulder. Adventure Cycling, they did our tour maps, warned us about the eighteen wheelers that run US 12 but this first day on the highway we had only one truck come up behind us on the thirty mile ride to Lowell. The Three Rivers Resort is the only place to stay for the next 70 miles, so it was there or nothing. Well it was an excellent nothing with a cabin right on the river. Pay phone at the office. They even had a swimming pool and hot tub. Great for aching legs. We will come back here. Most likely in a car but we will be back. Happy Birthday today to our youngest who is taking her daughter Emerson and her husband, the Geezerpalooza webmaster, to St. John for two weeks. It is not my fault the website is getting ugly and I can't get it to accept an entry for Pine Creek to Council, it's Becca's fault, but Happy Birthday anyway. Miles ridden today 70. Total miles 771.
Day 12 - May 3, '03 - Lowell to Powell Junction Not the greatest start to the day. We awoke to the sound of rain falling around our cabin. Here in the Northwest it never seems to rain hard, it just drizzles constantly. Brewed in Missoula is a wonderful dark beer that is sold only in Montana, Idaho and Eastern Washington. It's called Moose Drool. And riding through the rain that name struck me as a wonderful way to describe the weather. Today was a "Moose Drool" day. Gere and I set out and before we could clear the resort I had a flat. But there was an upside. It was a front flat, front tires are much easier to take off a bike, and I could walk back to the cabin and change the tire under the porch roof instead of being in the rain on a US Highway that had no shoulder. To be honest, I only realized the good side of this situation once I was on my bike and heading upriver. At the time I was just gritching about the damn flat. No latte' today. There were no services whatsoever in the 70 miles between Lowell and Powell Junction. This was an all day climb in the rain. Along the way we saw many, many kayakers and people rafting. Talking to one of the kayakers he said the water temperature was 38 degrees. Are you kidding me? Made seem riding a bike uphill in the rain a very simple project. Again the beauty is overwhelming. No trace of logging, no espresso stands, no signs on poles saying "Lose Weight Quickly and Scientifically" with a number to call and thankfully in seventy miles we had only four, count 'em, four 18 wheelers come up behind us and all gave us a wide berth on the road. There is a lady with a white SUV and Idaho plates that I would love to catch up with and pull out her nose hairs one at a time. Man did she come close. I also had what turned out to be an Idaho State Patrolmen come up behind me at a high rate of speed and just before the patrolmen passed he turned on his siren. Talk about causing cardiac arrest. But that's what happens when all Idaho can afford to hire is people who finished in the bottom ten per cent of their high school class. Gere was approximately a mile ahead of me, the college professor is either really good on a bike or I am really bad, but he kicks my butt on a daily basis, and the patrolmen did the same thing to him. It was totally un-necessary, but I'm sure Smoky Bear a laugh plus he was probably anxious to get to coffee and doughnuts and work on the new connect the dots book his wife bought him for those boring times on the road. We spent the night at Powell Junction just out of the wildnerness area and the only stop between Lowell and Montana. Nice place. Nice lodge. Nice cabin. Miles today 70 total miles 841.
Day 13 -May 5, '03 - Powell Junction to Missoula, MT (via Lolo Pass) Guess what? It's raining. I'm sure you are as shocked as we. Today we see Idaho in our rear view mirror. What an incredibly beautiful state. I know I'm repeating myself but we just keep pointing out to each other one beautiful sight after another all across Idaho. And to think they are best known for potatoes. Somebody is sure doing a crummy marketing job on behalf of Idaho. As hills go, Lolo Pass turned out to be a piece of cake. Except for the snowstorm. We would have rain, sunshine and then snow. On top was the visitor's center and it was closed due to weather. They did leave the bathrooms open so don't let it be said the government isn't providing needy services to its citizens. We took our "Welcome to Montana" pictures but it was way to cold and windy to try our "drive a golf ball into the next state" picture. Golf. Boy does that sport seem a distant memory. We didn't play once in Idaho. While we worked up a real sweat climbing Lolo, we about froze to death coming down on the Montana side. You learn all about the principles of a swamp cooler at 30 miles per hour at 28 degrees in a wet shirt. We warmed up with beef stew at Lolo Hot Springs and then rode on to Missoula with a 20 mph wind at our back. Did we boogie. Rode 30 miles in a little over an hour and a half. Tomorrow it's a day off. We need it. The website is behind and clothes that have been handwashed in a sink are starting to smell like they have been handwashed in a sink. The threads need a little laundromat action. Miles ridden today 58. Total miles 899.
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Idaho Skinhead Bicycle Club welcomes Geezerpoolza |

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Well not exactly skinhead |
Gere riding Lochsa on US 12 |

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Not much room between rider and river |
Kayakers alomg the Lochsa |

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Water temp was 38 degrees |
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